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Algonquin Canoe Trip III

Canada's Oldest Provincial Park

Algonquin Canoe Trip III

Postby Dan » Tue May 13, 2008 8:41 pm

Algonquin 1998

Helena's journal.

Friday July 3

Left Toronto at 9:00 a.m. and made great time on the highway. For once no hurricane force winds or raging downpours to contend with, which seem to happen every time we put the canoe on the roof of a vehicle. After a one hour lunch stop in Huntsville we got to access point one at Lake Kawawaymog at approx. 1:45 p.m.

Got out on the water at 2:30 p.m. and reached our first campsite at the west end of North Tea Lake by 4:00 p.m. On the way along the Amable Du Fond River we saw a moose. The first portage (135 m.) we were able to walk the canoes down. The second portage (255 m.) we had to carry.

Had a nice swim after setting up camp and had a great fillet mignon dinner (yummy). Soon after it started to rain/drizzle. We sat around for a bit drinking hot chocolate and yapping and turned in about 11:00 p.m.

Saturday July 4- North Tea L. to Kawawaymog L. to east end of North Tea L.

After a full night of rain we got up at 6:30 a.m., had a quick breakfast and started back to gate number one to send our driver Carl back to Toronto with the van. He left us at 10:00 a.m. We paddled back to campsite number one seeing lots of brown ducks and a muskrat along the river. After packing up camp and having lunch we left with sunny/partly cloudy skies and big wind (against us of course) at 2:00 p.m. We finally found a nice campsite on an island at 4:45 p.m. feeling very tired after the long paddle. Eating spaghetti tonight and looking forward to a long, dry night.

Gotta go. Dinners on.

P.S. We were in bed by 9:00 p.m. because we were sooo tired.

Sunday July 5 - North Tea L. to Manitou L.

Wow wee! Did we ever sleep. Finally got up at 10:30 a.m. Had a GREAT cup of coffee and ate a pancake breakfast at noon. Just before we ate we were visited by some M.N.R. staff who were checking permits; first time ever in all the trips we've done in the park. They were nice fellas. They were surprised that we were going to be in the park for as long as we planned.

Left camp at 2:00 p.m. and made it to our only portage of the day (550 m.) at about 3:00 p.m. Checked out the rapids - quite scenic but unrunnable. Ate lunch and were off paddling again about 4:30 p.m. The sun was glorious today and off in the distance we saw a huge beach. We decided to set up camp number three on it. Did a bunch of washing up and swimming and are currently relaxing and debating when to eat. Dan is about to go out and catch us a fish. See ya later.

P.S. Dan caught a clam!

Monday July 6 - Manitou L. to Kioshkokwi L.

No star gazing last night; too much haze. And so we woke to a gray day.
Left camp at 11:30 a.m. and got to our first portage at the Amable Du Fond farm about 1:30 p.m. Checked out the farm which was built in 1880 - real cool! - and started our portage at about 2:00 p.m. A real easy portage of 1160 m. with a nice raspberry and wild strawberry patch at the beginning of it. Finished our portage around 3:00 p.m., ate lunch and were off again by 4:00 p.m. Hit our second portage at 4:30 p.m., a shortly of 275 m. and our third ( which we ran) a short while later. The water is quite low here so later in the summer you would probably have to do the carry. The last portage of the day - 200m.- we had to carry as the river was a series of falls. Also, it was neat at the beginning as a tree had been struck by lightning and you could see how the ensuing fire had progressed. I guess we made it to Kioshkokwi L. at about 6:00 p.m.- we did dilly dally on all the portages. While looking for a campsite we saw a bald eagle, had a family of loons yap at us because of the young one and heard a moose crashing around in the woods - a regular wild kingdom.

We set up camp about 7:15 p.m., ate dinner and then Julian decided to go for a paddle. Soon after he left he called out that he saw a moose close by in the bay. Dan and I jumped into our canoe and we slowly made our way to the moose. We got very close, about fifteen feet away and watched it munching on water lilies. We slowly paddled away and left the moose to it's dinner - undisturbed.

Got back to camp, had a hot chocolate, looked at stars and turned in at about 11:00 p.m.

Tuesday July 7 - Kioshkokwi L. to Mink L.

We ended up having a fairly long paddling day today ; from 11:30 a.m. to almost 7:00 p.m. The weather was sunny/partly cloudy with a light wind. As we paddled under the old train trestle at Kioshkokwi L. Dan caught a good sized bass. Of course we all had to dip our lines in the water at that point. Julian quickly had one on, but it unhooked itself and I too had the same thing happen. After about fifteen minutes we decided to carry on. As we were paddling to our first portage (730 m. to Little Mink L.) Dan spotted a moose at it. However, by the time we got there the moose had gone. We did this first portage and stopped at the end for lunch about 2:30 or 3:00 p.m. Started off again at about 4:00 p.m. across Little Mink L. and quickly came to our second portage (450 m.). We slowly paddled down Mink L. looking for a camping spot. We came to one sight that looked promising, however there were two guys camped right next to it who said the site we were interested in was no longer a site. We looked down the lake and at the end of it there appeared to be a nice beach. The two guys said we could camp there. It seemed to take forever to get to the end of the lake (it should have been called 'Bloody Long L.') and when we did we discovered there was no where to camp! The beach was a mud flat. We back tracked and finally found a suitable site.

We discovered lots of blueberries here and quickly set up camp. Boy, are we ever knackered! Dan went across the lake and cleaned the bass which he had caught earlier and Julian and I enjoyed a much needed swim. We ate dinner at 8:30 p.m. or so. Boy was that fish ever GOOD!

Unfortunately the site had no good food hanging trees being a birch grove and all, so we had to hike down the shore where we were met by a pile of mosquitoes. We hurriedly hung the food in a pine tree and ran back to camp smacking mosquitoes the whole way.

We had our hot chocolates standing in the smoke of the fire because it got so buggy. We turned in at 11:00 p.m.

P.S. Another bright, moonlit night tonight.

Wednesday July 8 - Mink L. to Laurel L.

Got up a little earlier than usual, 7:30 a.m., ate breakfast, munched blueberries and left camp at 11:00 a.m. Once we got onto Cauchon L. the wind started to blow so we had a slow paddle. It looked like it might rain all morning and afternoon but the sun came out around 2:00 p.m. Dan and I discovered an old electricity generating cabin on a side trip portage into Windermere L. off of Little Couchon L. Inside the old abandoned building we saw the generating equipment - powered by a water wheel - and an old Peterborough canoe; as well as a canoe that was so big it broke apart in the middle for easier portaging. It must have been thirty feet long. We also saw a cedar dingy. We wonder who's stuff it is as it looks old and forgotten. Next to this portage is a nice piece of land with a couple of beautiful cottages on it - lucky people. Also, across the lake is a place called Daventry where the trains probably turned around it's crew. Here too there are a bunch of nice looking buildings. Anyway, we paddled further today than planned and made it to Laurel L. and our sixth camp by 4:30 p.m. We had a nice corned beef hash dinner with a soup appetizer. After hanging the food bag Julian caught a pan sized bass which we'll eat for breakfast. Dan is just off to go fishing back at the dam next to the portage. It's now 8:45 p.m.

P.S. Dan just got back with a nice sized pickerel so we'll be having a great fish fry in the morning.
P.S.S. The moon is full and fill the sky like a huge glowing orb.

<i>My evening on Laurel L. was idyllic. When I set off to go back to the old dam to fish the sun was low in the sky and the water was glass. The canoe just seemed to sing across the surface without effort as I paddled indian style, kneeling in the chine with the boat keeled over. Below the clear surface I could see the labyrinth of logs and twisted roots, like some kind of strange architecture in an underwater kingdom. I paddle by a swampy bay full of craggy dead trees that the evening light was spilling into and was struck by how radiant it was in red and purple hues compared to the rest of the world which was being enfolded in the soft shadows and gold tips as the sun dipped behind the trees..

When I got to the little bay that the dam spilled into there were three or four beavers floating around on the silky, calm water while another worked on a lodge. They seemed strangely unintimidated by me and slowly paddled around the canoe. Occasionally one would slap its tail and a big plum would go into the air as they all vanished, but they would soon return.

The bay is very pretty, surrounded by pink granite walls topped by mighty pines. At one end the water crashes over an old logging dam that is jammed with debris, moss, ferns and whatever else can manage to get roots down. The water swirls out into the bay a short distance.

I tossed a few lures around the deep, dark water of the bay and them turned my attention to where the water tailed out from the dam. I got a nice pan size pickerel on the first case. I also got a few bass. Some got away and others I let go.

I decided I didn't want to be paddling a wilderness lake in the dark so, satisfied with my catch, I said good bye to my beaver friends and turned the canoe back to camp. The sun was below the horizon, but the sky was the deepest blue I had ever seen it. As I paddled the full moon came up over the trees on the distant shore and rose in the sky lighting my way back to camp. It was truly spectacular.

DAN</i>

Thursday July 9 - Laurel L. to Cedar L.

After a most excellent breakfast of fish and granola we finally left camp at 12:30 p.m.- late! I guess I'll start getting the guys up earlier.

We paddled the short distance to our only portage of the day and we started to hear thunder off in the distance although it was hot and partly cloudy.

It started to really cloud over after we did our portage (275 m.) into Aura Lee L. and we noticed the clouds getting darker and the thunder becoming more frequent. Going under the train trestle into Little Cedar L. was really neat but as soon as we got further down the lake the wind started kicking up and the sky got really dark. We hoofed it to a nearby island just in time; it started to pour. After about fifteen minutes the skies cleared again and we set off once more. At 3:00 p.m. we got to what was supposed to be our camp for the day. There used to be a cabin here but all that was left of it was the huge stone fireplace and chimney. We decided not to stay there and carried on. It sprinkled rain off and on a couple more times and we found our camp for the night at 4:00 p.m. We set up camp and the tarp and a good thing too. It started raining again and it may do so for the rest of the evening.

Dan raided a beaver lodge for dry fire wood and Julian got a fire going. It's now 7:45 p.m. and we're sitting under the tarp waiting for our freeze dried dinner to cook. The rain is steady and the waves are picking up on the lake. I'm glad we're off the water, but in spite of the weather we are quite comfortable where we are.

Friday July 10 - Cedar L. to Cedar L.

Woke up early this morning - 6:00 a.m.- but missed the sun rise. Too bad it would have been incredible! Had a fight getting the fire going with damp wood but at least the sun was shining and warm.

Left camp early at 10:15 a.m. and very carefully crossed over the top of Cedar L. to get across to Brent Station. Boy was it ever windy and wavy. We stuck close to Julian because his flatter bottomed canoe is less stable in rough water. We tacked up into the wind and quickly turned down wind when we were halfway across. What a feeling! One minute we're battling to stay upright and keep forward momentum and the next we're surfing like we're in Hawaii 5.O.!

Got over to Brent , which is a ghost town with a little general store in it at about 11:00 a.m. and bought some butter. The store owners are the only residents of the town and keep the place open in the summer to supply campers and rent canoes. Dan and I started off again to find a campsite while Julian stayed at the store to re-charge his video camera batteries. Dan and I thought the water was calmer than it actually was but at least the wind was at our backs. Found our nice sandy beach site, that we had camped at before, at 12:20 p.m. Julian paddled in at about 2:20 p.m. saying he couldn't believe how windy it was out on the water. After lunch I bathed and did my laundry and then relaxed while reading on the beach. It was still quite windy and clouding over with dark clouds so I went to my tent and continued reading. It sprinkled rain a bit but cleared soon. We all went fishing around 5:30 p.m. Dan caught a small bass, I caught a large bass and white fish and Julian caught a small bass. We let them all go because we were after pickerel. After raiding a beaver hut for fire wood we went back to camp, ate dinner, drank hot chocolate on the beach and watched the stars - all the while slapping at the mosquitoes. Saw a shooting star and three satellites and turned in at about 11:00 p.m.

Saturday July 11 - Cedar L.

Today was a stop over day on Cedar L. We were supposed to have R+R but NOOO! What do we do? We decide to paddle back up Cedar L. to the Petawawa R. and look at the falls and then go down to the dam and fish. All of this on one of the windiest and biggest lakes of the trip. We started out at about 10:30 a.m. and paddled up wind to the Petawawa R. taking about one and a half hours to do so. Spent about three hours sightseeing and having lunch. Then we started off down the lake towards the dam. At least the wind was sort of at our backs, but it was still sloshy going. We fished at the dam and walked around checking it out. Dan broke his rod while trying to unsnag his lure in the rapids. We finally left the dam at about 7:00 p.m. and didn't get back to our site until 7:45 p.m. Boy ,were we ever tired! Ended up eating when the bugs came out about 9:30 p.m. and turned in about 11:00 p.m.

Sunday July 12 - Cedar L. to Radiant L.

We had a very interesting occurrence last night. Just before first light as we were still asleep Dan and I heard a noise on the beach near the canoes. What had happened was that a moose had stumbled out of the woods and into our canoes as it made it's way to the lake. It managed to get around our canoes and started across the beach towards a small bog just to the right of our tent which was set up right on the beach. The moose passed about ten feet from our door just as we were peeking out to see what was going on. Dan and I exclaimed to each other how neatoe it was what had just happened and went happily back to sleep. Well, about maybe an hour later Dan and I were once again woken up to the sound of grunting and chewing. That moose was back again passing just ten feet away from our tent door as it made its way back from breakfast in the bog. We watched as it stopped in front of us ,sniffed, grunted it's breakfast satisfaction, turned into the lake and swam away towards the nearby island. Dan and I laid there chuckling and joked about setting up a moose crossing sign on the beach and once again drifted off to sleep.

We awoke and commenced what would once again become a long and arduous day. We left camp late at about 12:15 p.m. and shortly came to our first portage (960 m.). We carried this one had a short paddle and arrived at our second portage (685 m.). After scouting the rapid, called 'Surprise R.', Dan and Julian decided to run the first section each going solo. I thought it would be a bumpy ride and wasn't up to it so I carried a pack down to an early take out point. As I suspected both canoes had a bit of a bumpy ride in the second section of the first part of Surprise R. but at least no one dumped. We carried the packs and boats to the end of the portage as the second half of Surprise R. is unrunnable - not enough water in the river and lots of bone cracking boulders.

Got to Devils Cellar R. portage at about 5:00 p.m. It's only a 860 m. portage but it feels like 1860 m. because it's whinedy with lots of inclines and declines. To top it off the mosquitoes were HELL. At the start of the portage there is a steep incline of about 70 degree straight up and what appears to be the direction of the portage. I scrabbled up the loose and pebbly dirt path on my hands and knees while carrying Dan's loaded down pack. All the while I was wondering how the @*#* Dan and Julian were going to get the canoes up this! I finally got to the top and couldn't tell where the trail was so I waited for Dan to come up. Dan started up but didn't get far before the canoe went flying backwards off his shoulders straight down towards my brothers head.! To make sure Julian didn't get hit by the now airborne canoe Dan grabbed the gunwales and sort of threw it sideways over his shoulders while making sure it landed as gently as possible beside him. While doing this of course, Dan goes off balance and once the canoe has landed he goes flying down the incline and comes crashing to the ground. In the space of ten seconds the whole event came to an abrupt and dusty end. Dan thought he might have broken his leg but thankfully he hadn't, and both he and the canoe survived the fall.

In the meanwhile, I'm standing at the top of the incline in the bush scratching my head and looking for the trail. I'm thinking there must be an easier way and was telling the guys to try to go around the bottom of the incline. Sure enough that's where the portage was. But now I've got to get back down the incline, and I'm tired and frustrated as all heck because now I'm by myself! I finally resorted to sliding down the incline on my butt all the while feeling that the pack on my back would send me down the slope ass-over-tea-kettle . Halfway down I cashed in a girlie chip but I eventually made it down without getting too much sand in my shorts. I started along the correct path wondering all the while why in #@^* the trail goes up that incline? Probably some sick joke played upon us unsuspecting city folk by the M.N.R. workers.

Anyway, we finished the portage from hell feeling quite exhausted. We started paddling again at 6:00 p.m. and didn't to our campsite until 7:30 p.m. The wind picked up as we were about halfway across the lake so we had a sloshy ride but at least we were close to shore with the wind at our backs. We ended up eating in the dark at 9:30 p.m. and we had to have the lantern on to see. Also, the mosquitoes were quite bad. After dinner and dishes we all hiked out onto the sand spit that was in front of our site and watched the stars. We were all too exhausted to stay out for too long so we turned in fifteen minutes later at 11:00 p.m. foregoing our usual evening hot chocolate.

Monday July 13 - Radiant L.

What a glorious day! After sleeping in until 10:30 we had a relaxed breakfast and watched the windy lake. It rained briefly last night but the sun is beating down now. The lake is as windy and shallow as we remembered it from the last time we were here. After doing laundry and having a much needed bath we played in the shallow waters. Dan and I walked out a distance what must have been a half a mile and the water was still only up to our mid-thigh. Dan flew his kite and Julian paddled out to join us briefly before heading off in search of the old gravesite on the lake. Dan and I had lunch and relaxed on the beach. It got too hot after a while so I headed back to a nearby pine seeking shelter from the sun. I have no idea what time it is now and I don't care either. The wind is blowing, white caps are rolling, the sun is shining and I'm sipping my scotch in the best place on earth.

P.S. Radiant L. is still the best place on earth but it's much more enjoyable if you don't have a wicked sunburn on your toosh! Let this be a reminder always to wear sun block especially if your standing au natural on a sandy shoal for over half an hour.
P.S.S. Shortly after I retired under a shady pine tree Julian came wadding down the beach with a HUGH catfish. It was so big and ugly he didn't want to take it off of his lure by himself so he dragged it for half an hour towards our campsite. It really was huge and way too huge for us to eat so Dan got out his pliers, cut off the lures hooks which were embedded in the poor fish's mouth and we let it go.

Tuesday July 14 - Radiant L. to Wagtail R.

Today was a long tiring day. I got up at 6:30 a.m. and started breakfast so the boys would get up earlier than usual. Coffee was made and the guys were up to drink it by 7:30 a.m. We left camp early for a change by 9:45 a.m. and checked out the gravesite at 10:30 a.m. and then headed down the Petawawa R. We ended up running every single rapid with the exception of Wagtail R. We walked our canoes down the beginning part of the rapid towards our campsite.

The water is low this year, so each rapid along the way was fairly bumpy and you had to keep your eyes peeled for rocks and a safe route. Even though we scouted each rapid and discussed the route we inevitably hit rocks. Boy would I feel better in an A.B.S. boat. Julian did surprisingly well considering he went solo and only went down one set of rapids (Francis R.) backwards. As with an inexperienced paddler he ended up getting side-slipped on rocks here and there but he did the right things by keeping his cool and leaning down stream so his upstream gunnel wouldn't go under water. He always managed to get off of those rocks somehow. At any rate he did great being a solo paddler and all. Those rapids are tough to negotiate especially in low water. I think it's actually harder to run these rapids instead of just doing the portage.

Anyway, we're at our campsite now arriving just before 6:00 p.m. It's 8:30 p.m. presently and I'm just waiting for dinner to cook. Julian just caught a bass which we'll add to our dinner.

P.S. the fish was wormy so we didn't eat it. Yuck!

Wednesday July 15 - Wagtail R.

We had a lovely relaxing day today. Slept in until 9:00 a.m. and had fresh blueberries in our pancakes and two pots of coffee for breakfast. OOOh such luxury!

Then we just lazed around doing our own thing and collecting wood from a beaver lodge for the fire. Had a late lunch at 3:15 p.m. and afterwards had a great time swimming and playing in some small rapids next to the island. The day got so hot and humid that the water felt wonderful and was very refreshing. Afterwards we decided to go fishing but had no luck. It's 8:00 p.m. now and we're just waiting for dinner to cook; chili mexicana, rice and bannock bread. Mm, Mm, good!

Thursday July 16 - Wagtail R. to Bypass Falls

What a soggy day! Got up about 7:30 a.m., ate and were off by 10:30 a.m. That's when it started to rain. When we got to Bruces' Portage we carried all the gear over to the other end. I didn't feel up to running the rapids (Mac Donald R.) so I opted to stay with the gear while Julian and Dan shot the rapids solo. They left me at about noon and I didn't see them again until about 3:00 p.m. While I was waiting for them it rained and rained, then stopped raining for about five minutes then started raining again. I did some fishing but caught only suckers and a small bass. I got Dan's camera set up during the dry spell and as luck would have it stopped raining when Dan and Julian got to the bottom of the rapids so I was able to take some photos. They had a great time and saw some fun water running most of the rapids except for two areas where there were ledges and falls. They said I missed a great time, but I was just too tired. We ended up camping at the bottom of Bypass Falls all feeling very tired and soggy. We set up camp quickly because it looked like more bad weather was coming and sure enough during 'lunch' which we ate around 4:30 p.m. it started to rain again. After lunch we retired to our tents and zonked out until 8:15 p.m. Not wanting to eat in the buggy dark we opted to have soup for dinner which we made on the stove. We went back to bed at around 10:00 p.m.

P.S. It rained all night long.

Friday July 17 - Bypass Falls to L. Traverse

Another day another paddle. Got up about 7:30 a.m. under partly sunny skies. After a long breakfast we packed up quickly because it looked like more rain. We left the site at noon and ran our first and only rapid of the day and the last of our trip - Rocky Chute. The water is really low! The chute we ran three years ago was completely unrunnable- so we had to go down the center of the rapid. Shortly after this set of rapids we got to our first portage (550 m.) around Devils Cellar R. then we had a short paddle to our next portage (1050 m.) around the 'Temptations' R. Dan decided to not even try these rapids because of the low water and also the low energy of the day. Once again it rained off and on and was generally a gray day.

We continued on and did our last portage at Bill Mason R. (660 m.). We've paddled down L. Traverse to a nice campsite and the sun is coming out: it's now 7:30 p.m. We're starting to eat dinner now and I hope to have our last evening of the trip with just the three of us - that means no mosquitoes! I hope they are non-existent and the stars plentiful.

Saturday July 18 - L. Traverse

Boy was I stupid last night, with a capital 'S'. All throughout the trip I was frugal with my scotch consumption so I wouldn't run out. I was pleased as punch with myself when I found I probably had at least six ounces left last night. So, as my brother and I sat around the fire and later star gazed on the beach I got more and more drunk. The stars were amazing as finally the moon had waned but I had to turn in as they started to spin. I stumbled to the tent and crash landed into my sleeping bag. At some point during the night I had to get up and whiz but I barely remember this. Anyway, I woke up feeling not too great and in search of the Eno. Finally Julian got up and made coffee and then Dan got up. We ate breakfast but I couldn't handle too much food. I did enjoy some toasted pioneer bread and Nutella however. I finally broke down and took a Gravol which made me sleepy so as Dan and Julian paddled off to pick up Mike Roth and Cheryl at the pick up point I crawled back to the tent to sleep. I awoke after about two hours just in time to see Dan and Julian arrive with our guests at about 2:00 p.m.

After Mike and Cheryl set up their tent we ate lunch. Mike brought beer but I wasn't about to crack one open immediately. After lunch we hung around and I played fetch with Reeve in the lake. Julian and Mike went off fishing while Dan, Cheryl and I hung around camp.

We had a lovely bratwurst dinner around 7:30 p.m. at which point I finally broke down and had a beer. I tried to make a chocolate brownie cake over the fire for dessert but it wasn't successful. After cleaning up, Mike was out on the water again trying to catch fish with my brother. The remaining three of us sat on the beach waiting for the stars. We were all tired so after Julian and Mike returned Dan and I turned in for our last evening of the trip.

It's too bad about the bugs. If there weren't any, we could really enjoy the evenings and star watching. I think from now on we'll be camping in late August.

Sunday July 19 - L. Traverse to Toronto

Well it's the end of our trip! BOO HOO! Cheryl and Mike and I were up early at 6:30 a.m. Mike went fishing and Cheryl and I started the fire and coffee for breakfast. It was a cool morning so I was glad to get the fire going. We had a great breakfast with fresh eggs, peameal bacon, toast. O.J. and coffee. After cleaning up and packing up our camp we left the site about 10:30 a.m. and made it back to the van forty-five minutes later.

Got the car packed and canoes loaded and were off at about noon. It had clouded over during the morning and rained a bit on the drive out of the park. Once we hit Toronto city limits it really started to rain.

After an uneventful drive home and a bit of slow traffic around Oshawa we made it home around 7:00 p.m. As usual everything looked weird and surreal.

After dropping Cheryl off at her place and Mike at his we went over to Julian's where Carl and Eric and Deborah were about to sit down to a nice salmon dinner. Dan and I decided to stay and eat dinner and talk about the trip with our friends.

After a lovely evening Dan and I headed home and unpacked our gear from the van.
And that's it! Another end to another trip.
Dan
 
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